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A WORD SKETCH OF 
FAIRMOUNT PARK 



BY 



J. BUNFORD SAMUEL 




PHILADELPHIA 

1917 



A WORD SKETCH OF 
FAIRMOUNT PARK 



-v\ BY 

j; BUNFORD SAMUEL 



WITH A MAP 



PHILADELPHIA 
I917 



COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY J. BUNFORD SAMUEL 



PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS 

PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. 

©CI.A470648 



51917 



A WORD SKETCH OF 
FAIRMOUNT PARK 

THE EAST PARK TO GIRARD AVENUE 

Hark, this is Faire-Mount Park 

An original entrance to the Ark, 
All the animals you can see. 

By climbing the nearest tree. 

(From an old Madrigal.) 

IMAGINATION in the time of yore, always added zest 
to the description of a locahty. 
Faire-Mount Park is one of the most extensive and, 
in natural advantages, the most attractive of pleasure 
grounds in the world. Its acreage is as follows : 

Old Park including triangle at 25th and Spring Garden Sts. 119.78 acres 

East Park 513-94 acres 

West Park 1343.28 acres 

Wissahickon, including Cresheim Valley and Houston 

Ramble 1176.39 acres 

Schuylkill River running through the Park 373.00 acres 

Total acres 3526.39 

The Schuylkill River, called by the Indians, " Ganshew- 
channa " (the noisy stream), divides the Park into the East 
and West sides, and a tributary stream, called the Wissahickon, 
a corruption of the Indian name " Wisamickan " (Cat Fish 
Creek), adds much to the Park's attraction. 

The extreme southeastern end of the East Park commences 
now at the intersection of Callowhill and Twenty-fifth Streets. 
The principal southern entrance is Green Street, and this 
driveway is called the East River Drive. On the north side 
of this entrance is the colossal fountain and statue of Wash- 

3 



ington, by the Belgian sculptor " Sommerling." It looks more 
like Frederick the Great than the Father of our country. It 
was erected by order of the Society of the Cincinnati. On the 
south side is the original hill, called Faire-Mount, after which 
all the Park is called. 

The plot of ground on which the old reservoirs were exca- 
vated extends from Callowhill Street, on the south, to the 
river on the west. Green Street on the north, and on the east, 
Twenty-fifth Street. Continuing on a straight line from Green 
Street entrance is a pathway and road leading to the river, 
skirting the reservoirs, then comes a small bridge, and further 
on extending into the river, a branch of the old water works, 
ending with a pavilion overlooking the Dam. This dam across 
the river was commenced in 1819, and measures 1148 feet 10 
inches in length, and 12 feet 6 inches in height above low 
tide. The dam was rebuilt in 1842-43, to overcome the ice 
pressure. The four reservoirs contain about 27 million 
gallons of water. The water level was 96 feet above city 
datum. The old turbine wheels and steam pumps have been 
removed from the water works, and an up-to-date aquarium has 
been installed in their place, this being an ideal location for 
an aquarium. The view from the top of what is left of the 
reservoirs is quite unusual for such proximity to a large city, 
and the climb to the summit will repay anyone making it. 
The entire construction of the water works was designed by 
Frederick Graff and J. S. Lewis, by order of the Councils, 
June I, 1848. A monumental bust of Frederick Graff is erected 
on the terrace back of the water works. Near here is a bronze 
fountain, being a replica of a wooden one carved by William 
Rush. The original fountain was located in front of the old 
pump house in Centre Square, now the site of City Hall, then 
it was removed to the forebay or intake of the water pumped 
into the reservoirs. This forebay has been converted into a 
seal pool. There the fountain stood for years, until the wood 
showed signs of decay, and a model was cast from it in bronze. 
Rush's model of the figure was made from a life study of Miss 
Vanuxem, a belle of that period. The bird out of whose 



mouth gushes the water is a bittern, belonging to the crane 
family. Flocks of these birds could be found in the marshes 
along the riverside in olden times. The conception of a 
fountain seems to have originated in Councils, for in looking 
over the minutes of Councils, Vol. 3, January i8b3-i8i3, there 
is found the following resolution of September 14th, 1809. 

Resolved, by the select and common councils, that the watering 
committee, be authorized to have the castings for pumps, etc., and to 
add to the coolness of the place, had caused a jet-d'eau, or fountain 
to be erected on a simple plan, and with as much economy as possible, 
the whole cost of which will not exceed the sum appropriated by 
councils. 

A romance attached to this matter adds, that John Moss, 
a member of Councils from the old Cedar Ward, ordered from 
William Rush, the wood carver, a wooden fountain and pre- 
sented it to the City, anticipating the resolution of Councils, 
ordering a jet-d'eau (this is the first public fountain erected in 
the United States). This section of the Park can be left 
here by going to the gateway opening to Callowhill Street 
Bridge and walking around the reservoir site to Green Street 
entrance. From here the boundary of the East Park is 
Twenty-fifth Street on the east to a little beyond Green Street, 
then the Reading Railroad to Girard Avenue ; on the north 
the Pennsylvania Railroad ; on the west the Schuylkill River 
and on the south the Fairmount Reservoirs. 

William Penn intended to build a residence on the summit 
of Faire-Mount but it is left to the city to place its extravagant 
municipal art gallery there instead. 

At the conclusion of the Centennial Exposition, Memorial 
Hall was given to the city for an art gallery; it was built of 
granite, and the wings at either end, at a small expense, could 
be extended quite a distance, making a splendid gallery; this 
seems to be overlooked. 

The reservoir hill for years belonged to the Bureau of Water 
— only recently it was amalgamated with the Park. The dis- 
tance from the City Hall, Broad and Market Streets, to this 
point is five blocks north and eleven blocks west, making a 



little over a mile and a half. A half mile further on is the 
Lincoln Statue, dividing the driveway into three branches. 
The sculptor of this statue was Randolph Rogers, an American 
residing in Rome. The casting was done at Munich ; it cost 
$19,300, and the granite base $9400. The figure measures 
nine feet in height. A little below this statue near the Brown 
Street entrance to the Park is a figure of Silenus, holding the 
infant Bacchus in his arms. It is supposed to be the work 
of Praxiteles, and is copied from the original antique in the 
Louvre, at Paris, Above the Lincoln statue is a large animal 
group, a bronze lioness carrying a wild boar to her young, by 
August Cain. And a little further along, on the way up on 
the west side of Lemon Hill, is a statue of the Wrestlers repro- 
duced in bronze by Barbedienne of Paris, presented by A. J. 
Drexel to the Park, and is copied from the original antique 
at the Royal Gallery, at Florence, Italy. There are two springs, 
one at either side of the pathway, skirting Lemon Hill. Also 
a tiny pond is located nearby. 

Lemon Hill was the country residence of Robert Morris, 
the financier of the Revolutionary War, and many of the coun- 
try's notable men of this period visited the house from time 
to time. The house was destroyed by British troops but was 
rebuilt by Mr. Pratt in the summer of 1796. The Hill was 
formerly called Old Vineyard Hill. A music pavilion and 
other buildings now surround the mansion. The road leading 
to Girard Avenue Bridge has a steep upward grade. On the 
left is a figure of Morton McMichael, the first president of 
the Park Commissioners. He is seated on a bronze chair and 
has a companionable expression. Near him is located General 
Grant's log cabin, brought from City Point, Virginia, where the 
General used it during the Civil War. On the right is a 
statue of Jeanne d'Arc by Fremiet. This statue is a more 
mature conception of that lady than the one erected in the 
Place des Pyramides, at Paris. She stands guarding the 
approach to Girard Avenue Bridge, and back of her is a small 
hill called Sedgeley, on top of which is a guard house and a 
statue of Humboldt, shaking his fist at Jeanne d'Arc. Gossips 

6 



say this locality will be the mecca of the suffragists of the 
future on account of Jeanne's presence. Sedgeley at the time 
of the Civil War was used as an earthwork intended to keep 
invaders from crossing the bridge. Think of this preparedness 
fifty years ago ! 

Returning to the Lincoln A'lonument : Almost opposite is a 
public boat house, also a fountain, and then at intervals of 
about fifty feet or more there are fourteen private boat houses 
and clubs, constituting the Schuylkill Navy — and there are 
two fountains between the public boat houses and Fairmount 
Avenue. A prize challenge Silver Cup donated on June 24, 
1879, by the late George W. Childs is annually rowed for in 
the month of May. About opposite the tenth boat house on 
the north side of the driveway are four figures carved in 
red sandstone, representing Tam-o'Shanter and his family 
seated in a little rustic pavilion; these figures were carved by 
Thorn, and are cheerfully gazing at the passersby. They were 
given to the Park Art Association by the Trustees of the 
Franklin Institute on November 10, 1877. 

At the last boat house, called the Sedgeley Club, there is 
placed in a tower on the roof a beacon light. It is proposed to 
erect from this club house northwardly to Girard Avenue 
Bridge, a distance of 2000 feet, statuary emblematic of the 
discovery and settlement of our great country in chronological 
order. This is made possible by a bequest made by Ellen 
Phillips Samuel, to the Fairmount Park Art Association, of 
the entire residuary portion of her estate, after the death of 
her husband, the income of which only is to be spent in erecting 
statuary on granite pedestals of uniform shape and size on 
the edge of the embankment on which a bulkhead is already 
built along the riverside. The pedestals are to be placed 100 
feet apart. Mrs Samuel never intended that any artificial 
construction, or that standing trees should be removed to 
carry out her idea and ruin the sylvan beauty now existing in 
this locality. It will take eighteen pedestals for this purpose, 
after which the fund can be spent for other statuary and 
fountains in perpetuity in any location of the Park. There 



are already two fountains on the left side, and steps leading 
down to the water's edge for the convenience of skaters in 
the winter who want to land here. On the right side further 
along, is a statue of a lion hunter, by Albert Wolf, placed on 
a ledge of rock ; the horse seems stranded there. 

Just below Girard Avenue Bridge, on the right side, is a 
heroic bust of Garfield, by Augustus St. Gaudens, almost hidden 
in a hollow, and near here is a spring. To cross this river road 
anywhere is dangerous on account of the fast driving upon it. 
If a path had been made on the right side of this driveway 
just above the Tam-o'Shanter group, to the Girard Avenue 
Bridge, it would afford the pedestrians another walk. At the 
bridge the old portion of the Park ends, and the remainder on 
both sides of the river is a continuation. A wooden stairway 
of unnumbered steps leads on this right-hand side to a walk 
under the bridge, and if one's breath holds out, a further 
ascension comes to the top, which is Girard Avenue. Seats 
are needed all along this portion of the Park, from Green 
Street entrance, also at Lincoln's Monument. An underground 
tunnel for pedestrians should be built under the driveway to 
Lemon Hill, thus insuring safety to the multitudes who crowd 
this portion of the Park. 



THE EAST PARK FROM GIRARD AVENUE BRIDGE 
TO CHESTNUT HILL 

THE first object to be seen in the East Park after 
crossing under Girard Avenue Bridge is the Spring 
Garden Pumping Station. It is a brick building 
of Oriental design, and is built in a ravine just 
north of the bridge. The pumping capacity of the works was 
over twenty-two millions of gallons of water daily, and this was 
stored in a reservoir on a hill back of the station, holding 
about nine millions of gallons of water. This pumping plant 
has been abandoned like the Fairmount works. 

There are two springs here, one in front and the other 
behind the building near Thirty-third and Thompson Streets. 

The connecting railroad bridge crosses the river here, on 
which pass the Pennsylvania trains to the eastern and western 
portion of our country, and is one of the most important 
railroad bridges in this country. 

Just north of the bridge on the bluff, is a statue of the 
Cow Boy, by Frederick Remington. 

Between the two bridges is the entrance to the tunnel. It is 
hollowed out of the solid rock of what was called Promontory 
Point, and is 140 feet long, 41 feet wide and 22 feet 9 inches 
high. It was begun in October, 1870, and finished in June, 
1871. 

Between Girard Avenue Bridge and the tunnel is a roadway 
branching off of the East River Driveway on the east side, 
and in a steep ascent reaches Girard Avenue. 

A quarter of a mile above Girard Avenue Bridge, at the 
intersection of Fountain Green Drive and the East River 
Roadway, is the Equestrian Statue of General Grant. It is 
placed on a huge pedestal of pale pink Jonesboro granite, cost- 
ing $9000. The statue itself cost $23,875. The long cape and 
peculiar shaped hat on the statue were vouched for by his 



son, General Frederick D. Grant. The sculptors were Daniel 
Chester French and Edward C. Potter. 

A water trough and spring are near here and another spring 
on Fountain Green Drive about 150 yards in the rear of 
Grant's statue. 

From this point the different streets and avenues having 
entrances along Thirty-third Street commence from Girard 
Avenue to Dauphin Street. At Dauphin Station of the Park 
Trolley road is the intersection of Thirty-third Street and 
Ridge Avenue. This avenue forms the East Park boundary as 
far as Huntingdon Street. Here the South, Central, and 
North Laurel Hill Cemetery are the boundaries up to Abbots- 
ford Avenue, where Ridge Avenue again becomes the boundary 
up to the entrance of the Wissahickon. 

The estates comprising this portion of the Park northwards 
from Girard Avenue Bridge are : Fountain Green, Mount Pleas- 
ant, Rockland, Belleville, Ormiston, Edgeley, Woodford, and 
Strawberry Mansion. They lie in successive tracts along the 
river bank and end at Laurel Hill Cemetery. 

The Smith Playhouse, on a lawn overlooking the Reading 
Railroad, fronts on a drive leading from Columbia Avenue 
and Oxford Street entrances to the Park. Here children can 
enjoy every comfort under professional care, including simple 
food, and a series of amusements for children under ten years 
of age. There are springs on the bridle path south of the 
Playhouse called Lithia and Castle Springs. 

A statue of the " Medicine Man," by Cyrus B. Dallin, stands 
at the head of Strawberry Hill drive road west of Dauphin 
Street entrance to the Park. Do look at this horse's legs. Is 
it possible for any four-footed animal to get into such a limb 
tangle ? 

There are several good springs in this vicinity — Edgeley 
Springs and others south and north of Trolley Bridge which 
spans the river near here. 

At the junction of Columbia Avenue and Oxford Street 
inside of Park limits is a statue of Orestes and Pylades, by 
Carl Steinheimer, of Carlsruhe, Germany, and at the Dauphin 

10 



Street entrance to the Park is a very ornamental fountain. 

At Oxford Street entrance to the Park the driveway con- 
tinues around on the west side of the East Park Reservoir for 
over a mile. It forms three loops before reaching Dauphin 
Street entrance. The first loop takes in Rockland, also a 
branch roadway from here leads south to Grant's Statue on 
the East River Drive. The second and largest loop takes in 
Edgeley, having two street entrances — Park Avenue and 
Dauphin Street. There the last loop commences, and takes in 
both Woodford and Strawberry Mansion, coming out at the 
Trolley Bridge over the river. There is also a Park driveway 
midway off of Ridge Avenue, between Lehigh Avenue and Cam- 
bria Street, running to the East River Drive. And at Queens' 
Lane Reservoir there is a driveway forming a circle around the 
reservoir coming out at the mouth of the Wissahickon. 

Only two historic mansions are left standing on this portion 
of the Park: The Woodford west of Park Trolley road, built 
by William Coleman, a friend of Frankhn, in 1742. William 
Lewis resided here, also one of the Frank family. It is 
now the headquarters of the Park guard. The other man- 
sion is Mt. Pleasant, built by John Macpherson, in 1761. 
Benedict Arnold bought it and presented it to his wife for 
a marriage portion. General Von Steuben dwelt there for 
a short time. Strawberry Mansion was the property of Judge 
Hemphill, built about 18 12 or 181 5. 

The village of the Falls of Schuylkill River comes into 
sight after passing the base line of Laurel Hill Cemetery. 
Here the Falls Bridge crosses the river, also the Philadelphia 
and Reading Railroad bridge. Tradition says, " This is the 
last place around Philadelphia from which the Indians re- 
treated." The Falls used to be a famous locality to fish. The 
old " Rock Fish Inn " stood here, and was famous for the 
catfish dinners and waffles it served. 

Fort St. David, a rude but strongly built cabin, was located 
here on one of the rocks that jutted out into the river. The 
Society of the Fort, its builders and Gastreonomic Garrison, 
were companions of Penn. The Garrison during the Revolu- 



tion had a noble record. Their house was burnt down by the 
Hessians for revenge of the stubborn fight that took place 
here. It was rebuilt after the war, but was again accidentally 
destroyed. John Dickerson, the author of the " Farmers' 
Letters," was an active member. 

The Philadelphia Canoe Club is near here, south of Ridge 
Avenue and Wissahickon Drive, also the following up-river 
stations of the Schuylkill Navy: Philadelphia Barge Club 
(Anchorage), about 150 yards north of Falls Bridge; Undine 
Barge Club (Ringsteten) and the Bachelors' Barge Club 
(Button) are both southwest from Ridge Avenue and School 
Lane. 

Back from the Falls Village on the east side of Ridge Road 
stands the Old Mifflin house, the residence of Governor Thomas 
Mifflin. On the same side of the roadway was a school owned 
by Joseph Neef, a pupil of Pestalozzi, of Switzerland. He was 
an early advocate of out-of-door schooling, and was what 
might be called an out-of -elbow pedagogue. Both of these 
properties in olden times ran to the river edge, but now 
they are just outside of the Park limits. 

Here the East Park ends and leaving the village and pass- 
ing along the Ridge Road for the distance of three-quarters of 
a mile, the mouth of the Wissahickon is reached. At this point 
the Queens' Lane Water Works are situated. 

The Wissahickon 

A high railroad bridge of stone arches spans the Wissa- 
hickon stream here, and a dam is built across the stream to 
hold the water in dry weather, and passing under the bridge, 
the ground on either side was the limit of the battle of Ger- 
mantown, redoubts having been built on both sides of the 
stream. 

In building the bridge the old landmarks were destroyed. 
A shaft at Roxborough, in the Leverington Cemetery, com- 
memorates some Virginia soldiers who were killed near here. 
General Armstrong, Commander of the Pennsylvania Militia, 

12 



wrote to President Wharton, October 5, 1777 : " We cannonaded 
from the height on each side of the Wissahickon ; one field 
piece we got away, the other I was obhged to leave on the 
horrendous hills of the Wissahickon." 

The first building on the roadway is Wissahickon Hall. Near 
here are two springs and a watering trough. 

The Hermit's Well is just outside of the Park limits. Near 
this locaHty a foot-bridge crosses the stream on the west side. 
The well was dug by John Kelpius, a scholar and mystic, who 
came from Sielenburgen, in Germany, in 1786. 

Near here used to be the Log Cabin, which contained a rude 
collection of stuffed animals. South of Hermit's Lane are two 
springs, also, the William Leonidas spring and water trough on 
the east side drive on the site of what was the Log Cabin. 

A quarter of a mile above the Leonidas Spring on the op- 
posite bank of the stream, is a high bluff called the " Lover's 
Leap." This rock stands 2(X) feet above the water. Here is 
a small shelter pavilion. From the base of this rock a deep 
glen follows the stream. This is called " The Hermits Glen." 
To some imaginative people who have climbed to the top of 
this rock, the scene is not unlike the table rock at Niagara 
Falls. 

Hermit's Lane Bridge crosses the stream here below Ritten- 
house Street. Here is Indian Arrow Spring. 

Another half mile a bend in the stream occurs, and a creek 
called Paper Mill Run flows into the Wissahickon in a series 
of little waterfalls. Near here stands the old house in which 
David Rittenhouse was born, and near the source of the creek 
the first paper mill in America was erected in 1690, by Ritten- 
house's ancestors. 

David Rittenhouse, the astronomer, was of Dutch ancestry. 
His first great work was the famous Orrery, now at Princeton 
College. His next mathematical feat was a series of calcula- 
tions marking the transit of Venus over the sun's disc. He was 
State Treasurer from 1777 to 1789, afterwards Director of 
the Mint, and was President of the Philosophical Society from 
1 79 1 to 1796. 

13 



Beyond here the road reaches a bridge which used to be 
called the Red Bridge, now is the Blue Stone Bridge, a short 
distance below Walnut Lane. 

On the other side of the stream towers Mom Rinker's Rock. 
This rock, with the exception of Indian Rock, is the grandest 
boulder of them all. A statue of William Penn with the 
inscription " Toleration " is placed here on top of the rock. It 
was presented to the Park by John Welsh whose property it 
adjoins. 

Another quarter of a mile along is a mill in a gorge, and 
behind the mill is a steep hill. On its summit stands an oblong 
stone building, known for a century as the Monastery. Near 
here is a spring. 

In the valley below (the Willow Glen) there is a spot known 
as the Baptistry. Here the monks gave their converts a 
ducking. 

The scenery at this point is most attractive. 

A mile farther on are certain caves. These caves are 
situated in a picturesque valley formed by a junction of the 
Wissahickon with a small stream. They evidently are the 
work of man searching for something years ago, or perhaps 
shelter places for the aborigines. 

In the distance a Blue Stone Bridge comes to view on the 
site of a former Red Bridge, and here is one of the landscape's 
surprises. Along the bank on the opposite side in early spring 
or autumn is seen the effect of a forest of deciduous trees 
growing amongst evergreens. 

The Pipe Bridge used to be a little farther along. It carried 
the water supply from Roxborough to Mt. Airy reservoir. 
This is known also as Allen's Lane Bridge. It was a graceful 
structure lifted a considerable height above the stream. Two 
twenty-inch water mains formed the top cord of the bridge. 

Curious to relate, Dr. Franklin in his will dated 1780, recom- 
mended " As a mark of his good will, a token of his gratitude, 
and a desire to be useful after his departure, that a portion of 
this legacy left to accumulate for the benefit of the City of 
Philadelphia, be employed at the end of one hundred years, 

14 



if not done before, in bringing by pipes the water of Wissa- 
hickon Creek in to the town, so as to supply the inhabitants." 

A hundred yards above the Pipe Bridge, a wooden bridge 
crosses the stream, and if a footpath be followed for a short 
distance, Cresheim Creek will be found, which joins the Wissa- 
hickon, and at this point is the Devil's Pool. It is a weird 
mass of rocks and tree trunks casting their shadows into a pool. 

The road reaches a quarter of a mile beyond this bridge, 
where the hills open out into sunlight. Here a stone bridge, 
called Springfield Avenue Bridge, crosses the stream, and on 
a clear day its reflection in the water seems an entire oval 
in masonry. Here is Valley Green and the Inn here is a 
stopping place for Park visitors. 

Half a mile further on the left hand side of the road is a 
drinking fountain. It is covered with ferns and wild flowers, 
and is the first drinking fountain erected in this part of the 
country. Its date is 1854. A clear, cool spring fills the basin, 
above cut in the stone are the words " Pro Bono Publico " and 
belpw " Esto Perpetua " — " For the Public Good let it remain 
forever." The fountain was a joint gift of John Cook and 
Charles ]\Iagargee in 1871. In addition, they donated the 
ground around it to the Park Commissioners. 

Half a mile farther on the opposite side of the stream is 
Indian Rock, on which stood a wooden figure of Tedyscung 
now replaced by a granite statue. He was supposed to repre- 
sent the last chief of the Lenni Lenapi tribe of Indians. 

The road continues on a mile farther to the northern limits 
of the Park, at Thorp's Mill Lane. Here it crosses Thorp's 
Lane Bridge and by a steep ascent reaches Chestnut Hill, 
where splendid views in almost every direction greet the 
visitor. 

In addition to the general condemnation of ground for the 
extension of the Park in 1896, and the recent purchases and 
gifts, the Wissahickon area has been largely extended. Lin- 
coln and Cresheim Valley drives and the Rittenhouse statue 
and entrance to the Park are but a few of the newest additions 
that are well known. * 

IS 



In all, nearly one hundred and fifty acres of ground have 
been added to this section of the Park since 1900. 

The splendid concrete bridge from Johnston Street, German- 
town, and approaches to Walnut Lane, Roxborough, is one of 
the engineering feats of the country. 

A more romantic and picturesque pleasure ground with 
natural advantages cannot be found in any other pubhc Park 
in the world. 

At Chestnut Hill it may not be amiss to add that very hand- 
some private residences and gardens fringe the Park domain. 

There is a trolley station at Belmont and Parkside Avenues 
in the West Park — the cars of which run on the extreme west 
boundary of the West Park on which there are several way 
stations, as far as the Trolley Bridge, over the river it then 
proceeds to Strawberry Mansion in the East Park at the 
entrance of Dauphin Street and returns the same way. Also 
in the summer time a few small river steamboats start at the 
boat landing just opposite the Lincoln Monument in the East 
Park, and they stop at several landings on both sides of the 
river as far up as the Wissahickon, returning the same route. 

A few trolleys run from all sections of the city to the Park. 
Small rowing and motor-boats may be hired at the Public 
Boat House near the steamboat landing. 



THE WEST PARK 

THE southern end of the West Park commences at 
the northwest end of the lower deck or roadway 
of Callowhill Street bridge. This is Thirtieth 
Street. Turning abruptly north the West Park 
road commences and runs down to the river edge and ends at 
City Line bridge, nearly four miles distant. 

The Pennsylvania Railroad is the boundary on the west side 
of this narrow strip of Park property up to Thirty-fourth 
Street, where the Zoological Garden commences, and this is 
bounded on the south and west by the railroad, being shaped 
like a semicircle, meeting at both ends Thirty-fourth Street, 
which is its eastern side, and just enough of Girard Avenue 
on the north to form an entrance to the Garden, which covers 
a tract of land of over Thirty-three acres. Girard Avenue 
at this point going west as far as Fortieth Street is the 
boundary of this section of the Park. At Fortieth Street a 
branch avenue starts, called Parkside Avenue, and this is the 
southern Park boundary up to Fifty-second Street. Most of 
the intervening streets running north enter the Park alongside 
of these avenues, all of which is known as West Philadelphia. 

Returning to the Zoo, at the front entrance on Girard Avenue 
is a bronze figure of a Dying Lioness, by Prof. Wilhelm Wolff, 
of Berlin, placed there on December 9, 1876. 

The Zoo is situated on what was known years ago as 
"Solitude." The mansion on this tract dates from 1785, and was 
erected by John Penn. John was the grandson of the founder 
of our state. It remained in the Penn family until purchased 
by the city. It is said that John Penn planted most of the 
trees around the house. Grandville John Penn, the great- 
grandson of the founder, was the last owner of " Solitude." He 
visited this country in 185 1, 

This estate was the last unsold property of the Penn family, 

17 



who once owned a vast portion of the State of Pennsylvania. 
The sale of the property and the release by himself in 1852 
closes the long account of the great founder's name with our 
Commonwealth. Grandville Penn died at Stoke Poges, 
England, on March 29, 1867. 

The Zoological Garden is considered the second best in the 
country. It was opened to the public in 1874. The laboratory 
of the Garden is the first of the kind in the world devoted 
exclusively to the study of wild animal pathology. 

Crossing Girard Avenue, and going under the arches of the 
Pennsylvania Railroad bridge, is the commencement of Lans- 
downe Drive. It runs up hill and down dale to Horticultural 
Hall, a distance of a mile. 

Almost at the entrance of Lansdowne Drive, on the west 
side on an elevation, is erected the William Penn Brick House, 
removed from Letitia Street. It is assumed this was the first 
brick house erected in the city, and was built for Penn's 
daughter Letitia, whose name it bears. Her father did not 
grant the lot to her until the 29th of March, 1701. Penn lived 
there when it was first built, and when he returned to England 
it became the official residence of William Markham. 

On the east side is a bronze group, called the " Hudson Bay 
Wolves," by Edward Kemys, erected on September 28, 1872. 

Between this group and the bridge was a tract of land 
owned by William Warner, on which was built a club house 
called " The Colony in Schuylkill." 

Certain gentlemen, in 1732, fond of fishing, leased one acre 
of this land and enclosed it with a worm fence. For this 
ground they formally delivered to William Warner three sun 
perch fish on a large pewter plate as a yearly rental. They 
remained in this locality for ninety years, until civilization 
drove them away, and they relocated farther down the Schuyl- 
kill River near Bartram's Garden. 

During the Revolution this colony of anglers rose to the 
dignity of a state, which it now remains. The first governor 
of the club was Samuel Morris, who held the office for forty- 
six years; he died in 1812. At a dinner given here, Judge 

18 



Peters, a wit of the period, was seated next to General Whar- 
ton. The General wanted some wine, and calling to one of 
the younger members said, " Please call John." " I would 
suggest," said the Judge, " it would be safer to bring the 
' Demi- John.' " 

The roadway now descends to go under the Junction Bridge, 
and rises as it approaches Sweet Briar Mansion. This is an 
old house built by Samuel Breck, who was born in Boston, 
in 1 771. He lived at Sweet Briar for thirty-eight years and 
was called Farmer Breck by his neighbor Judge Peters. He 
served four years in the State Senate, and made his name 
memorable by the bill he introduced for the final emancipation 
of slaves in Pennsylvania. He also was a member of the 
1 8th Congress, and again was chosen State Senator and drew 
the bill for the establishment of the common school system of 
our state. He lived to welcome Lincoln to the city in 1861, 
and died August 22, 1862, aged ninety-one years. 

The ground in front of Sweet Briar, across the road, is 
now a children's play ground. On it is erected a clever bronze 
statue called " The Stone Age," by John A. Boyle. It was 
placed there in 1888 and is somewhat lost in the surroundings. 

A good pump giving refreshing water is on the north side 
of the house. 

The road now passes between a grove of venerable trees and 
emerges on the top of a rustic bridge which spans the Junction 
railway below. Here is a good view of the river and Lans- 
downe ravine. Just beyond the bridge is the Lansdowne con- 
course. Directly west of this looms up an extraordinary 
group of figures, called the Richard Smith Memorial, and 
further away the graceful dome of Memorial Hall is seen. 

Going through an imaginary entrance of the Smith statuary, 
Memorial Hall is reached. This was the Art Gallery of the 
Centennial Exposition and contains a varied collection of bric- 
a-brac, pictures, etc. On the southern front are two Pegasus, 
or Flying Horses, on either side of the steps and across the 
roadway is the Welsh Memorial. This cost $25,000. 

Passing through Memorial Hall, to the southern entrance, 

19 



and descending the high steps, a path leads to the statue of 
General Meade, by Alex. M. Calder, erected October i8, 1887. 

Near here used to be a bridge crossing Lansdowne ravine, 
but this was removed. If the walk leading to the bottom of 
the ravine be taken, a good spring will be found there. 

On the opposite side of the ravine glimpses of Horticultural 
Hall appear. 

The carriage road goes around the ravine, one branch of 
which leads to Belmont Avenue, the other continues to Horti- 
cultural Hall. On the way is passed the Japanese Garden, a 
relic of the Centennial Exposition. 

The site on which Horticultural Hall stands is the location 
of the Lansdowne Mansion, destroyed by fire on the 4th of 
July, 1852. The display of ferns and canes contained in this 
Hall is very pleasing to look upon. 

The Lansdowne Mansion and Estate contained some 200 
acres, and was built before the Revolution. Joseph Bonaparte, 
■ex-King of Spain, resided here ; its last owner prior to its pur- 
chase by the city was Lord Ashburton. 

In front of Horticultural Hall facing the east is a statue in 
marble called " Religious Liberty," by Moses Ezekiel. This 
was dedicated on July 4, 1875. 

On the western side of the Hall are statues of Schiller, 
Schubert, Verdi and Witherspoon, certainly a motley collection. 

From here running due west is a water garden, which in 
summer is tastefully laid out with aquatic plants. 

Going north after leaving Horticultural Hall, the road leads 
past a public baseball field at the foot of Belmont, and grad- 
ually ascends until the old Belmont Mansion comes into view. 

The estate of Belmont and the residence thereon is described 
by the Marquis de Chastellux in 1780. As " nothing can equal 
the beauties of the Coup d'oeil which the banks of the Schuyl- 
kill present on descending towards Philadelphia," at this loca- 
tion. 

The date of the erection of the main out-buildings is fixed 
by a monogram, T.W.P.-1745, cut in a slab set in the wall. 
It was the residence of Judge Peters. 



There was a chestnut tree near the mansion planted by 
Washington, also a white walnut planted by Lafayette during 
his visit here as the nation's guest in 1824. 

Downing says, " On this place twenty-five years ago was 
still standing the grandest avenue of hemlocks in America." 

The view from the hall door takes in an uninterrupted and 
slowly descending vista to the river, with the huge tower of 
City Hall in the far background, a view no other city in the 
United States can boast of. 

Richard Peters, the friend of Washington, was born in this 
house and died here August 22, 1828, aged eighty-four. He 
was the son of William Peters, and the nephew of Richard 
Peters, Secretary of the Land Office under the Penns. The 
father adhered to the crown, returned and died in England. 
Judge Peters ignored his mother country and espoused the 
cause of the Colonies. He was Secretary to the War Board 
during the Revolution, was a Congressman, and at the time of 
his death had sat as a United States District Judge for thirty- 
nine years. 

The road after leaving Belmont going northwest about 600 
feet joins the Speedway, also Belmont Avenue. Alongside of 
the Speedway is the return drive ; both of these are a mile long 
and at the end is Chamounix. Chamounix has no legendary 
or historical associations ; it only asserts its position on a hill 
which was originally called Mount Prospect, on account of the 
fine view of the surrounding country from here. 

There used to stand near the mansion some giant trees, a 
black walnut, a tulip poplar and a chestnut. 

The mansion was built in 1802 by George Plumstead. 

After leaving Chamounix the drive runs about 500 feet 
north and then turns abruptly to the west for a little over a 
quarter of a mile, then runs north again and merges with the 
river road drive. Continuing in this direction for another 
quarter of a mile Roberts Hollow is passed and the drive 
enters City Line Avenue, the end of this portion of West Park. 

Continuing west along City Line Avenue for about half a 
mile, Belmont Avenue is reached, and then going south along 

21 



Belmont Avenue for another half mile on the second turning 
on the west side is a roadway leading to George's Hill, skirting 
the Twenty-fourth Ward reservoir on the north and the Ohio 
and Rhode Island Buildings on the south side before reaching 
George's Hill. The state buildings mentioned are relics of the 
Centennial Exposition. 

George's Hill comprises a tract of 83 acres ; an oval con- 
course 200 feet in diameter crowns its summit, which is 210 feet 
above the river. Spring water is forced up here for drinking 
purposes. This tract was given by Jesse and Rebecca George to 
the Park Commissioners. 

Most of this portion of the Park from George's Hill to Lans- 
downe concourse was the site of the Centennial Exposition 
in 1876. 

Leaving George's Hill at the northern side the roadway 
turns around, and passes the restaurant pavilion and runs 
east as far as the Catholic Total Abstinence Fountain. Here 
it branches south to Parkside Avenue and north it passes the 
English building, another Centennial relic. It then continues 
to Belmont Avenue, where turning to the south brings one to 
Parkside Avenue, the limit of the Park. Two small lakes are 
passed on the west side of Belmont Avenue, before Parkside 
Avenue is reached. 

The West River road mentioned at the start in this descrip- 
tion of the West Park runs along the water's edge of the Schuyl- 
kill, passing under Girard Avenue bridge and Columbia Avenue 
bridge. Just south of this bridge are the buildings of the 
Belmont Pumping Station, continuing along under the Trolley 
Bridge. 

The University Barge Club have their up-stream bungalow on 
the west side, and the Malta Boat Club have their house on the 
east side. 

Two other overhead bridges cross the roadway before it 
ends at City Line bridge. 

A slight description of the Centennial Exposition may not be 
out of place before closing the chapter of Fairmount Park. 

The Exposition grounds covered 236 acres. 

22 



The principal buildings were: the Main Building, covering 
21 acres; Machinery Hall, covering 14 acres; Agricultural 
Hall, covering ioj4 acres; Art Gallery, covering ly^ acres; 
Horticultural Hall, covering i^^ acres. Total contract price 
for building, $4,444,000. 

A comparison of acreage of ground covered by the Centen- 
nial Exposition with other Expositions of the past is as follows : 

London 1851, 20 acres of enclosed buildings. 

New York 1855, 5^ acres of enclosed buildings. 

Paris 1855, 30 acres of enclosed buildings. 

London 1862, 24 acres of enclosed buildings. 

Paris 1867, 40^ acres of enclosed buildings. 

Vienna 1875, 50 acres of enclosed buildings. 

Philadelphia 1876, 75 acres of enclosed buildings. 

The names of Edison and Bell, whose electric inventions 
were first shown to the public here, have encircled the globe, 
and a style of architecture, which may be called the American 
Renaissance, also sprang into being at the Centennial Exposi- 
tion. 



/ 




7 GLENSIDE 

3 BEECHWOOD 

tREt OF FtlRMOUNT PARK 



LNu-jpDi]Z]njjL_.CH, 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




